We have installed several of these pumps so far and we have been very pleased with the results.  It is completely compatible with the Jandy Aqualink RS along with other pool and spa control systems.  The pump runs more quiet, even in high speed, which eliminates one of the drawbacks that we have found with others, like the Pentair Intelliflo.  It also can still handle a pool and spa combo that originally was fitted with a 1.5HP motor or greater.

AquaPro APEX Series 1HP Variable Speed Pool Pump – 208V/230V – APEXVS1

This is also listed under the SunRunner Brand, MODEL  SUNPVS125  208-230V Variable Speed Pump 1.25SF EE

• (208)9.1/4.5/1.8AMPS
• (230)8.5/4.4/1.7AMPS

We have tested this pool cleaner extensively, and feel it is the best value for the dollar!!!  It also offers much more than any “suction driven” pool cleaner at this price level.

This is the best pool cleaner if you are a do it yourself pool owner!!!!

What are the advantages?

• a robotic cleaner does not rely on the filter pump and flow to operate, it runs independently.  so the pool cleaner can run through the night, even when your pool pump is not in operation.
• this also means less wear and tear on your equipment.  empty the debris and dirt at the pool cleaner itself, not the equipment
• less “hang-ups” and problems handling larger debris and foreign objects

 Only $449.00.  Which includes free delivery and a demonstration up to one hour!!!!  We want you to understand how to use it properly and take advantage of what it can do!!!

SALE!!!  On Marathon Impower Motor, $599.00 plus tax and installation

The state of Florida has began to mandate a transition from traditional single phase motors to variable speed motors on most pool pumps.  While most of the requirements will focus on equipment installed on newly contructed pools, it will start to affect repairs and replacements on exisiting pool equipment as well.  While single horsepower, single speed it still available, some are still choosing to make the switch now.  Obviously, the initial cost of the equipment is higher, so it is a trade off on future savings on utilities.

Click here to estimate how much you could possibly save on your electric bill by switching to one of these motors.

For a limited time only, get the Aquacal SQ 120 (115K BTU) for only $3,599.00, includes BASIC installation and sales tax.

Basic installation= replacement of an exisiting heat pump (no new electrical or gas work needed)

The HeatWave SuperQuiet SQ120 comes packed with all standard features. Our patented counter-flow water management system heats water faster and more efficiently.

Chemical corrosion is not a factor with our impervious materials. That’s what we like to call “durability without sacrificing efficiency”.

Designed for residential and light-duty commercial pools. Works great for smaller pools where over sizing is desired.

More and more pool builders and retail outlets are convincing homeowners to either switch to a “salt system” or chlorine generator, either for their newly built pool or as a retrofit for their existing pool.  This has brought several new issues, related to the science of balancing the pool water and preserving the pool finish.  A zinc anode is one item that is becoming popular with sales people who are becoming educated about the side effects the salt system can have on the customer’s finish and want to give the pool owner added value.  These simple items can be installed for only a fraction of what it might cost to eventually acid wash or do a complex stain treatment after a few years.

But more importanly, one simply has to understand the added complexity of balancing PH and when/how to add salt to the pool to keep it from having harmful effects on the plaster.

Click in this article to read more about some of these factors and how they may or may not lead to issues with your pool finish, old or new, if you are installing a salt system chlorine generator.

Florida Decides to Relocate in 2011!!!!

Believe it or not, there is not much that you need to do. 

Many people think that it is necessary to lower the water level to acommodate the rain water, but chances are, if your pool was going to overflow, it would have done so by now.  Most pools have an overflow or static line running from the pool wall or inside their skimmer and out into the yard.  As long as the end of the line is cut below deck level and is free to vent, the pool water will run out of that before it gets up to your deck.  Just make sure it is not clogged with dirt or buried.  This happens often if people are careless when replanting or doing yard maintenance around the overflow.  It’s something you should always check when the wet season starts.  Make sure that it has an open place to pour out and run off from.

Don’t load the pool up with chemicals.  You are just wasting them.  If your pool turns green from excessive rain, it will only be fresh water and this clears up quickly with a basic shock, as long as you do it within the 2-3 days after the storm.

 Finally, if you are concerned about your equipment, be worried most about the pump motor.  Turn the power off to it for the duration of the storm and there should not be any damage.

We have been using phosphate removers for 3 years now, so we are well aware of their importance for preventing algae and removing it.  This spring/algae season has been no exception!!!!  This is a great article about how they are being used by companies like us to fight contamination in the water.  Most homeowners don’t even realize that it is there!!!   Also see our posts related to the topic here.

A recent advertisement on local radio stations about salt system (chlorine generators) is very misleading to the consumer.

The ad claims “install it, set it, and forget it.”   http://www.recwarehouse.com/

We have written about this before, on this site, and previously explained why it is not necessarily true.  ReadHere . 

With a salt system, you may not have to lug 2.5 gallon jugs of chlorine/bleach back to your pool.  Now you will just have lug 40lb. bags of salt back and forth!!!!  Maybe not as often, but keep that account open at the pool supply store!   It will also be important to keep a close eye on PH and Alkalinity, since the chlorination process via the cell makes that part of your water chemistry even harder to manage than if you were using traditional chemicals.  This, along with stabilizer to lock the chlorine in, will have to be tested for and adjusted using the same store-bought chemicals that you were probably using before.

More importantly, the rate of output on the chlorine generator will always have to be adjusted up and down, as the weather conditions and bather load change.  “set it and forget it” will almost certainly lead the cell being run too much or not enough.  So, periodically you will still need to test the chlorine level in the water to decide if you need to increase or lower output.

Also, the cell needs to be removed and cleaned after a certain amount of run time.  Make sure that is a responsibility that you can handle!!

Finally, you need to watch your salt level.  Too low will make the cell shut down and not produce.  Too much will again shut down the cell to keep it from being damaged by the high salt content.  It takes some diciplined monitoring to stay within this range.  I’ve gone out to salt pools before that were green.  There was no chlorine.  I told the homeowner that the salt level was too low.  Their answer was “I have to add salt?”

Now that salt pools are more common, many side effects have come to the forefront, mostly related to staining.  There are things that you can install with the salt system to prevent certain types of staining, but most of the staining happens when people don’t understand what they are dealing with. 

Tom