Florida Decides to Relocate in 2011!!!!

Believe it or not, there is not much that you need to do. 

Many people think that it is necessary to lower the water level to acommodate the rain water, but chances are, if your pool was going to overflow, it would have done so by now.  Most pools have an overflow or static line running from the pool wall or inside their skimmer and out into the yard.  As long as the end of the line is cut below deck level and is free to vent, the pool water will run out of that before it gets up to your deck.  Just make sure it is not clogged with dirt or buried.  This happens often if people are careless when replanting or doing yard maintenance around the overflow.  It’s something you should always check when the wet season starts.  Make sure that it has an open place to pour out and run off from.

Don’t load the pool up with chemicals.  You are just wasting them.  If your pool turns green from excessive rain, it will only be fresh water and this clears up quickly with a basic shock, as long as you do it within the 2-3 days after the storm.

 Finally, if you are concerned about your equipment, be worried most about the pump motor.  Turn the power off to it for the duration of the storm and there should not be any damage.

We have been using phosphate removers for 3 years now, so we are well aware of their importance for preventing algae and removing it.  This spring/algae season has been no exception!!!!  This is a great article about how they are being used by companies like us to fight contamination in the water.  Most homeowners don’t even realize that it is there!!!   Also see our posts related to the topic here.

A recent advertisement on local radio stations about salt system (chlorine generators) is very misleading to the consumer.

The ad claims “install it, set it, and forget it.”   http://www.recwarehouse.com/

We have written about this before, on this site, and previously explained why it is not necessarily true.  ReadHere . 

With a salt system, you may not have to lug 2.5 gallon jugs of chlorine/bleach back to your pool.  Now you will just have lug 40lb. bags of salt back and forth!!!!  Maybe not as often, but keep that account open at the pool supply store!   It will also be important to keep a close eye on PH and Alkalinity, since the chlorination process via the cell makes that part of your water chemistry even harder to manage than if you were using traditional chemicals.  This, along with stabilizer to lock the chlorine in, will have to be tested for and adjusted using the same store-bought chemicals that you were probably using before.

More importantly, the rate of output on the chlorine generator will always have to be adjusted up and down, as the weather conditions and bather load change.  “set it and forget it” will almost certainly lead the cell being run too much or not enough.  So, periodically you will still need to test the chlorine level in the water to decide if you need to increase or lower output.

Also, the cell needs to be removed and cleaned after a certain amount of run time.  Make sure that is a responsibility that you can handle!!

Finally, you need to watch your salt level.  Too low will make the cell shut down and not produce.  Too much will again shut down the cell to keep it from being damaged by the high salt content.  It takes some diciplined monitoring to stay within this range.  I’ve gone out to salt pools before that were green.  There was no chlorine.  I told the homeowner that the salt level was too low.  Their answer was “I have to add salt?”

Now that salt pools are more common, many side effects have come to the forefront, mostly related to staining.  There are things that you can install with the salt system to prevent certain types of staining, but most of the staining happens when people don’t understand what they are dealing with. 

Tom

We have written to you in the past regarding the risks present in all pools fitted with standard main drain covers. Many of you had your main drain covers replaced with The Anti-Snare Drain Covers of 2006 and 2007.

Today there are a lot more options for preventing entrapment and many of them have been improved to have less affect on the flow of your filter and will not take away from the performance of the rest of your equipment.  

     Most of the recent federal legislation is directed primarily at public pools and new construction, so there are many homeowners that are not required to address these issues, but perhaps should.

We encourage you read about these products and consider having us install them.  Many insurance companies are starting to require them or at least offer discounts and credits when they know the homeowner has made this improvement to their pool or spa.

 E-mail us for quotes and more information (majesticpoolservice@yahoo.com)

Get a solar blanket or heat blanket (covers) delivered and keep out the cold!!!  Right now we are offering free delivery to our primary service areas.

Solar Cover, Heat Blanket

 Contact us at majesticpoolservice@yahoo.com to schedule next day delivery!!!

This is the standard blue, 5-year material.  Easy to pull on and off the pool. 

12×28                    $109.00 + tax  (delivered)

14×28                    $129.00 + tax (delivered)

Why did my pump/motor go out? 

The average lifespan of an electric pump motor can depend on many variables, so it can be difficult to determine one single reason for pump failure. 

These are some of the most common reasons why a motor may fail earlier than average.

1. The single most common reason for pump failure in any climate is bad environment.  Many homeowners do not realize how long their pool equipment is in the sun, or they may not be aware of a sprinkler nearby or run-off from the roof during heavy rain.  But for the most part, the shadier and drier the environment, the slower the motor will rust and corrode and eventually fail.  Rust, corrosion or warping of the outer shell of the motor is tell tale sign of this.  It also may come from underneath, if too much ground or debris is allowed to build up around or underneath your pool equipment.  Always keep the bushes and other growth away from you equipment pad by trimming them back on a regular basis.
2. Seal damage will occur whenever the pump is allowed run dry for an extended period of time.  The internal parts of the pump will heat up and the shaft seal will break down, which prevents the pool water from entering the shaft and bearings that are driving the impellor.  Once the seal is fails, it is only a matter of time before the motor fails.
3. Distance from pool equipment.  Obviously, the farther the water has to go, the more work the pump will do.
4. Height of pool, in relation to pool equipment, or other factors that increase back pressure or resistance to flow.  Sometimes, pools or their equipment are placed above ground level, while the other is not.  This will always create more work for the pool pump as well. 
5. Solar panels.  Pumping the water to the roof, against gravity, always leads to a shorter lifespan.  This is why we encourage people to keep their solar off, when it is not needed.   It is also important to have the appropriate horsepower when there is solar heat vs. not having solar heat.
6. Bad filtration or plumbing.  This is why it is important to regularly change filters and backwash, especially in the case where you have a cartridge filter.  While plumbing the pool and it’s equipment is often up to the builder, how efficiently this is done can make a huge difference to the homeowners pocket several years down the road.  Also, just because your cartridge looks clean, does not mean that it is good for your pump.  Always know your filter’s “starting pressure.”  This is the reading you get on the pressure gauge with no cartridge in the filter.  If your clean filter is causing that pressure to increase by more than 5 psi, you should probably get a new one.  Never use the same filter cartridge for more than 2-3 years.

Should I get a cover?  We are asked that question frequently every year when it gets cooler. 

If you ask your pool maintenance person, the immediate answer is: 

“Please, no!!!!” 

But seriously, covers don’t have to be a hassle to anyone,  if some thought is given to what kind of cover is right for your pool and if it is installed to be “user friendly.” 

The most common type of cover purchased for energy conservation is the 5-year solar blanket.  Purchasing the cover is often only half of the battle.   It will sometimes cost just as much to have it installed and cut by a professional, if you don’t want the cover to frustrate and annoy you every time that it has to be removed or put back on.

 A reel is worth the investment if the cover is not too large, and if the shape of the pool is close enough to being rectangular in shape.  Reels are often more hassle than help if you try to use them on a cover that is cut to fit a free-form or bean-shaped pool. 

Free-formed pools are better off with a cover cut in 2 or more pieces, so one person can easily remove them by themself. 

It is also worth considering solar rings in these cases, especially if it is a small pool.  These are much smaller discs that only cover a small portion of the surface, but they also help transfer energy from sunlight to your pool water, much like the 5-year blanket. 

Taking care of the cover is crucial.  5-year solar covers will only last as long (as their name indicates) if they are cleaned and then stored properly while not in use.  Too many people leave their cover in a pile at the corner of their deck or in their garage and it does not age well.  The next year they go to use it and it is falling apart.

Majestic can offer all of these options and we will always encourage the homeowner to make the appropriate choice.

Customers always ask me, what is so great about a Salt Pool ? (i.e. pools equipped with a chlorine generator or salt system) ?

I say, “How much time do you have?” It’s a complex question.

Too many homeowners today are having pools installed with these types of systems and they are either being completely misinformed by the pool builder, or they are failing to understand the concept at all before attempting to maintain their pool on their own.

Lets start with the undeniable benefits.

Benefits

• Less need for “shocking” (or increasing the chlorine level to an abnormally high level to re-establish chlorine residual and sanitation to the pool).
• Less chlorine odor from water, provided the system is monitored properly and not allowed to overproduce
• A “softer” feel to the water while swimming.
• Less irritation. Since the chlorine produced is not a “packaged chemical”, it does not have the additives and by products that these chemicals have. These are often what cause the irritation, not the chlorine.

But there are several important myths and negative aspects of salt water chlorination that everyone should understand.

Myth 1

“It saves money in chemicals.”

If you compare the cost of manufactured chlorine itself and the cost of salt to produce that chlorine, the money saved is small and it would take years for the savings to pay for the equipment. Also, there are a handful of other chemicals that you need to use, if you are maintaining your pool properly and practicing all of the basics of pool water chemistry. Overall, salt pools only lead to noticeable savings if the operator follows the instructions and monitors the system and the water chemistry consistently. Otherwise they will often waste any savings fixing problems due to a lack of oversight.

Also, in hot and/or rainy climates, you will have to run your filter pump a certain amount of time to produce the desired output from the cell. This can make a difference in the other operating costs of your pool.

Myth 2

“Set it and forget it! Salt pools require almost no effort or maintenance.”

This is the most common misconception and it is completely false. It is my personal opinion that salt pools involve just as much oversight, if the goal is to have your pool properly balanced and sanitary. This is why many homeowners often have a green pool 6 weeks after their pool has been completed, because they have never checked the salt level or tested the water. People often end-up with stains and damage to their new finish as well, because they also fail to test and adjust PH levels during this period. The first 6 weeks of the life of a pool finish are critical. NEVER attempt to establish the initial salt balance in the pool or run the chlorine generator until your pool has been filled and treated, with traditional chemicals, for at least a month or however long it takes the finish to cure.

Furthermore, there can be a drastic difference in the proper output level, given the time of year and weather. Too often, people fail to lower the output when it is cold or dry, or the fail to increase the output when it is hot and rainy. The result is either a messed-up pool or a complete waste of the chemicals that they are supposed to be saving with the salt system.

If you don’t keep the filter clean for adequate flow or if you don’t service the cell when it is required, the cell can shut-down and not produce. A lot of people ignore this responsibility and have problems.

Negative side effects

Several negative side effects of salt water pools are now being addressed by people within the service industry.

Salt systems can make PH balancing difficult from week to week. If not handled properly, it can be a problem. Always check PH and Alkalinity together, before doing anything else. Follow directions properly, by always doing what is appropriate for Alkalinity first, because these two things can often lead you in opposite directions. Don’t set the chlorine production level any higher than it has to be, because the more the cell runs, the harder it will be to keep these two things balanced.

• Scaling, from high PH and/or Alkalinity (explained above)

• Corrosion. You can have damage from low PH, but also the salt content itself accelerates corrosion to a degree, and therefore some heaters and newer stainless steel filters are not designed for use with a salt system.

• Cell cannot produce enough chlorine to meet demand. The two most common causes of this problem are:

A. A larger cell should have been installed for the situation or size of pool.

B. The water is contaminated with nitrates, phosphates or other organic compounds that need to be removed from the water.