The Florida Pool & Spa Energy Law and Code Requirements are as follows.

1.   How did these requirements come into existence? In 2008, the Florida Legislature passed an all-encompassing energy bill, House bill 7135. Many state legislatures were aware of the California requirements aimed at decreasing the energy required for pools andspas, Florida was no different. Within the original law, provisions for energy efficiency of pool and spa components were included. FSPA worked with legislators to ensure these provisions were consistent with what nationally was becoming the norm and that there was an adequate amount of time allowed for compliance with these new requirements. In addition, FSPA put forth suggested edits to the original law, which were enacted in the 2010 legislative session (House bill 663) and 2011 legislative session (House bill 849). Some of these edits included pushing back the effective date, due to a delay in the Florida Building Code.

2. What does the Florida Energy Law require? House bill 849 removed the specific requirements for pools and spas that was originally laid out in law and replaced it with a requirement that pumps, motors, controls, heaters, and portable spas must instead meet the requirements in the Florida Energy & Conservation Code. Therefore, the specifics of what one must meet for pool & spa energy efficiency that were originally laid out in law are now found in the Florida Building Code. Chapter 4 of the 2010 Florida Energy & Conservation Code provides the specifics, which requires the following:

a. Residential filtration pool pump motors cannot be split-phased, shaded-pole or capacitor start-induction run types.

b. If the total horsepower (HP) of a residential filtration pool pump or filtration pool pump motor is one HP or larger than the pump and pump motor must have at least two speeds.

c. Residential pool filter pump controls, for use with a multi-speed pump, must be capable of operating at a minimum of two speeds.

d. Default pool filtration speed must be a speed that results in a flow rate that will NOT turnover the pool in less than six hours, and any high speed override must default back to the pool filtration speed in less than 24 hours. This allows solar pool heating systems to run at higher speeds during periods of usable heat gain.

e. Thermal efficiency of gas and oil-fired heaters must not be less than 78%.

f. Heat pump heaters shall have a coefficient of performance at low temperature of not less than 4.0 (COP).

g. Natural and LP gas-fired heaters shall not be equipped with constant burning pilots.

h. All heaters shall have a readily accessible on-off switch that is mounted on the outside of the heater and that allows shutting off the heater without adjusting the thermostat setting.

i. Portable spas must meet a certain standby power, based on the industry test protocol.

3. Does the law apply to existing pools and spas? Yes

a. Manufacturers will most likely continue to make single speed pumps and pump motors for non-pool filtration purposes, therefore it is the installers’ responsibility to choose and install a compliant model whenever replacing a pool filter pump or pool filter pump motor. Building departments will have the ability to enforce these requirements on both new and existing residential pools. If a particular building department does not require a permit for a replacement pump or motor on an existing pool, this does not discount that the law and code requires the replacement pump/motor to comply. *

Note: If repairing an existing pump or pump motor, an existing single speed pump or motor can still be used, but if it is being replaced, the new requirements kick in.

b. If existing pool filter pump controls are replaced, controls capable of operating at a minimum two-speed are required to be installed, even for single speed pumps.

c. Manufacturers only make pool and spa heaters that meet the efficiency requirements found not only in the Florida law and code, but more importantly, within federal requirements. Therefore, when installing a new or replacement heater, the contractor should only be able to install one that meets the minimum heater requirements laid out in the Florida law and code. However, readily accessible on/off switches are not federally required and a heater must also comply with these additional requirements.

**Note: Enforcement on existing pools will vary, this is where distributors and the industry as a whole must educate each other on the law and encourage compliance – the energy savings benefit the consumer.

4. What if the existing pump or pump motor is under warranty?

If the pump/motor in question is still under warranty and the manufacturer provides the replacement then it is not being sold and replacing it with a single speed pump should be okay. This follows how CA has addressed the same issue. Extended warranties not provided by the manufacturer do not comply as the third party is purchasing the replacement pump/motor.

5.  What else does the Florida Building Code require?

Per question #2, the 2010 Florida Building Code, within Chapter 4 of the Florida Energy & Conservation Code, will mandate all of the requirements found within the original Florida Energy Law. Chapter 4 will also have additional mandates that were not found in the law, requiring compliance with national energy standards ANSI/APSP 14 (portable spas) & ANSI/APSP 15 (residential pools and inground spas). These additional requirements consist of the following and only apply to new construction:

a. Pool filter pumps must be sized based on the formula H = C x F  so that the resulting flow rate will not turn over the pool water volume in less than 6 hours or 36 gpm, whichever is greater. The coefficient C changes based on pool size, with one for pools up to 17,000 gallons and another for pools that are larger. The effect is to limit the performance of single speed pool filter pumps so the residential pool will not exceed public pool turnover flow rates. In many cases, common ½ and ¾ HP pumps move too much water and cannot be used as pool filter pumps. The contractor does not need to go through the formula, but must determine the pool gallons, divide it by 360 minutes, and then select the pump from the database (that is currently being created at APSP) with curve A or C listed flowrate equal to or less than calculated filtration flowrate.

b. A time switch must be installed to allow pool owners to run the pool filtration pump only during the off-peak period.

c. Pool filtration piping must be sized so that the velocity of the water at maximum flow does not exceed 8 feet per second in the return line and 6 feet per second in the suction line.

Note: Do not confuse these requirements with ANSI-7 water velocity requirements for entrapment prevention purposes. Must comply with both.

d. Filters (cartridge, sand, and DE) must have a minimum area based on the 6-hour turnover flow rate (pool gallons / 360 minutes).

e. When used, filter backwash valves must be 2 inches or the diameter of the return pipe, whichever is greater.

f. For pool filtration pumps a length of straight pipe that is at least 4 pipe diameters shall be installed before the pump.

g. Directional inlet fittings are required.

h. 18” of pipe, valves, tees, or installed pipe from pool to pad are required to allow for future solar connections.

i. Sweep elbows are encouraged; not required.

6. How will I know if a pump or motor meets the new requirements? All residential pumps/motors used to filter pool water must meet the new requirements. The Florida law and code does not cover pumps and pump motors installed in addition to the pool filtration pump provided the pump is used exclusively for other purposes, such as booster pumps for cleaners, water feature pumps, etc. This applies to auxiliary pumps that include a filter; provided the auxiliary pump filtered flow is not used and not needed to meet the swimming pool’s turnover requirements. Per the APSP-15 Standard, one must refer to a database to ensure it meets the new requirements and to find what pumps or motors are available for that specific pool (based on calculated GPM for that specific pool). The Association of Pool & Spa Professionals (APSP) has put together a pump motor database http://www.apsp.org/Public/StandardsTechnical/PoolPumpDatabase/index.cfm

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As summer rolls along and the heavy rain season continues throughout SW Florida, we often get calls from people who claim that their current service person cannot solve problems involving their water quality or clarity.  Many also report that they have noticed sudden staining of their finish or “discoloration”, that they have never noticed before.

Low Total Alkalinity

The results of a low TA may be one or more of the following:

• etching of the  plaster, marbelite, marcite or tile grouting;
• corrosion of metal parts (pool heater,etc.)
• staining of the pool’s surfaces (from corroded pool heater?)
• green water (copper particles in suspension)
• burning eyes and itchy skin
• pH bounce (rapid fluctuations in pH)

Raising low total alkalinity

Sodium bicarbonate (bicarb) will raise the TA without excessively raising the  pH.  Care should be taken to increase the TA over a period of time,  especially if it has dropped to zero.  Note: Reactions will occur if the Alkalinity is not tested regularly and adjusted too drastically.   That’s why we strongly recommend that, if your Total Alkalinity and PH have dropped to extremely low levels, consult a professional and have your water tested on-site, before adding any bicarb yourself.  It could make your staining even worse.

High Total Alkalinity

The results of high TA may be one or more of the following:

• pH keeps going up
• cloudy water
• burning eyes and itchy skin;
• reduced chlorine efficiency resulting in stubborn algae growth.

Lowering high total alkalinity

Regular  small “acid shocks” with muriatic acid will reduce the pH while lowering the  TA. This can be an extremely slow process and it may take weeks or  longer to reduce high TA. One suggested method:

• shut the pool down and keep the pump off if you decide you need to add multiple gallons of acid.
• keep the pump off until you reach your desired TA level.
• this will allow you to avoid running the acidic (aggressive water) through any pool equipment that may be sensitive to low PH

If the pH is close to normal, and you TA is only 20-30 PPM above ideal range, use small amounts and re-test after 48 hours.  You can always add a little more, but you can’t take it out, once you have poured it in.

Tis the season to have algae.  Spring (April-June) is the most common time to have algae problems in your pool in Southwest Florida, for a few different reasons.  Many homeowners  or “do it yourself” pool operators make the mistake of using the wrong chemicals and/or the wrong methods of fighting algae in their pool, because they fail to identify the true source of the problem.   In many cases, the algae will still survive an initial shock or even pop-up, almost out of nowhere, in a perfectly balanced pool and the operator will say……Why is this happening?

In most cases, they will be dealing with three different types of algae, and each of these require a different course of action.

1.  Yellow Algae (mustard)

This is probably the most common type of algae problem that homeowners face in Southwest Florida.  We do not recommend using any liquid algaecides.  A pure “yellow treatment” is sufficient (containing sodium bromide).  There are many algaecides that will kill yellow algae but most do not remove the source of the algae from the water, which is typically a large amount of organic waste or contaminants.  The most common culprit is a high phosphate level.  Phosphate is often the byproduct of organic materials or other elements that eventually get broken down by the sanitizer in the pool and become a new compound.  Most cartridge filters will not remove this invisible contaminate from the water without help.  We recommend treating the pool with a phosphate remover .   Always test for phosphates before assuming that this is the source of your yellow algae (with a phosphate test kit).  Other reasons that you might be having trouble keeping the yellow away might be high total alkalinity or high cyanuric acid/chlorine stabilizer.  The latter can be a result of using too many trichlor tablets or other “stabilized” chemicals.  It will saturate the water an “lock-out” the sanitizer, keeping it from breaking down the algae spores.

How do I prevent high phosphate? Take a good look around your pool area.  Any potted plants on the lanai or near the pool will almost always lead to high phosphate levels, eventually.  Also, make sure that your overflow or auto-fill is not in a place where dirt and run-off can backwash into your pool, during heavy rain or watering.  Plant life and soil can poison your pool if not monitored and maintained properly.  Finally, many phosphate problems come from the swimmers themselves.  Lotions, soaps and hair products will almost always be broken down into phosphates.

Rinse off before you dive in for the first time!!!!!

2.  Green Algae

Green algae usually occurs from an extended period of poor chemistry, usually due to either a large amount of fresh water being introduced to the pool, or a period of no maintenance or care.  Most green algae does not require any fancy chemicals, just proper PH balance and a thorough “shock”, followed by en extended period of filtration (24-48 hours) and one or more filter cleanings.  A relatively “fresh” filter will speed up the clearing process (a new cartridge or internal cleaning, for D.E. filters).  It often helps to use cellulose fiber to aid the clearing process, but this is only necessary in extreme cases, where you cannot see the bottom.

We can perform all of these tasks for you, and we also sell and deliver the products used.  It is usually worth it to pay the additional labor for us to perform the treatment, although it is not required.  Contact us for prices and help identifying any of these problems.

3.   Black algae (mold spots)

Test for high phosphate contamination (explained above) and it if it high, treat that first. Some good old elbow grease (with a wire brush) and some time in the pool will take care of an isolated spot or two, provided that the water quality is right. Vacuum the mold and clean it from the filter immediately, once it is removed.

If it is too late, and your pool is covered in spots, we recommend using at least 2 pounds (per 10,000 gallons) of an algae destroyer. This is also known as granulated tri-chlor. Make sure to follow the directions on the container. It should sit, undisturbed, on the bottom for at least 24 hours.

We can perform all of these tasks for you, and we also sell and deliver the products used. It is usually worth it to pay the additional labor for us to perform the treatment, although it is not required. Contact us for prices and help identifying any of these problems.